A Night at Pizzeria Da Remo


A long-standing pizzeria in Testaccio

Is it worth the wait?

I recently spent some time away from Rome. I hit my two-week mark and was ready for Italian food. You see, I don’t eat Italian food outside of Italy. And it usually takes me two weeks to really miss it.

I returned home, and as luck would have it, I woke up sick the following morning – with no appetite.

My phrase for several days was ‘no fame. no vita’ [no hunger, no life]. A bit dramatic, I know. But I love food.

Fast forward 5 days.

I was feeling a bit better and spent the latter part of the day working at a local caffe. My appetite had slowly returned and I felt like I could eat. I wanted something warm and simple. I wanted pizza.

7 pm rolled around. I looked across the cafe table and asked my friend Jessica if she was hungry. When she said ‘maybe a little’ I asked if she wanted pizza. She didn’t say much.

7:37 pm I made a loud sigh.

7:42 pm Jessica says ‘okay, wanna get pizza?’ as she packs her bag.

We closed our tab and stepped outside. It was getting dark and the streets were slightly wet from the afternoon rain.

Just before 8 pm – too early for dinner by Italian standards, but I didn’t care. I was still sick.

We took a right, walked two blocks and arrived at the [2nd] closest pizzeria – Da Remo, a long-standing pizzeria in Testaccio.

We stepped in and the warmth of the wood-fired oven coupled with the smell of flour and fresh dough instantly provided a sense of relief. The humble restaurant was well lit but not fluorescent, ideal for my week-long headache.

I asked for a table for two. We were next to be seated.

A few minutes went by and we were shown our table. In the back right corner – I took the bench seat. Maybe everyone could tell I was sick [I had a beanie and coat on after-all], but the staff of men were supportive, kind and friendly. An interesting combination for a pizza joint in the middle of Rome, right? It was refreshing, to say the least.

The second the pizza arrived I understood the usual crowd that accompanied warm summer nights, awaiting their turn at the Roman staple. I had the verdure [mixed vegetable]. Jessica opted for the pizza bianca con salmone [salmon, no sauce]. Slightly burnt crust that was so thin it almost melted in your mouth. I ate three-fourths of my pizza [a reasonable amount considering my appetite was just returning]. Vegetables were eggplant, zucchini and broccoli rabe – which seemed to be fermented in a vinegar brine with a subtle touch of chili. The other vegetables were grilled, and perfectly balanced the mild tang that accompanied the broccoli rabe.

Jessica enjoyed her pizza bianca con salmone.


A dietitians order at Da Remo

Pizza verdure e aqua frizzante [€8.50]

Pizzeria Da Remo

Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, 44, 00153
Roma [Testaccio]

+39 06 574 6270

Reservations – No

Hours – Monday - Saturday 7pm - 1 am; Closed Sunday

Cards – Yes